gaseirneba TbilisSi
neta ra manZilia Tavisuflebis moednidan vakis parkamde?
romelime taqsis mZRoli albaT daufiqreblad gagcemT pasuxs, magram metrebi da kilometrebi aba ra mosatania, roca am or adgils Soris sivrce gemovnebis, stilisa da gansxvavebuli interesebis WrilSi SegeZloT dagenaxaT wlevandel Tbilisobaze.
bolo dros, kojris mimarTulebiT Tbilisis gafarToebul sazRvrebs, sxva Tu araferi, erTi kargi upiratesoba namdvilad aqvs: yovel naxevar saaTSi mawoni da yvavilebi yovelgvari Seferxebis gareSe transportirdeba "axali drois" yviTeli avtobusebiT. Tanac Tu gagimarTla da fanjarasTan mokalaTdi, mTeli gza SegiZlia aTvaliero xelis gulze gadaSlili dedaqalaqi, sanam mofamfalebul, magram mainc elegantur sololakSi ar Sesulxar.
sololakamde jer kidev karga manZili iyo darCenili. amitom, srulad SemeZlo gameazrebina is SeSfoTeba, im dRes ucnaurad abolebuli Tbilisis centris danaxvisas rom damemarTa. xanZari rom ar iyo namdvilad etyoboda. mere uceb Semodgomis sofeli gamaxsenda. qalebi Camocvenil foTlebs agroveben da mzian amindSi wvaven. Soridan zustad aseTi efeqti aqvs. magram, aba sad cnobili Tbilisuri Wadrebi da sad Cemi soflis neSo*.
bolo gaCerebaze, avtobusidan Camovdgi fexi Tu ara, yvelaferi naTeli Seiqna. abolebuli qalaqi mwvadis suniTac Warbad iyo gajerebuli. ucnauria, marto mwvadis sunma rom gamaxsena Cveni dedaqalaqis mTavari dResaswauli.
mgonia, rom Tbilisobis msgavsi dResaswaulebi ufro metad unda atarebdes saxalxo xasiaTs, masSi sazogadoebis farTo fenebis CarTvisa da Tanamonawileobis TvalsazrisiT. magaliTisaTvis Sors wasvlaa araa saWiro. CvenTvis yvelaferSi sanimuSo dasavluri tendenciebi sainteresoa karnavalebisa da maskaradebis kuTxiTac (veneciis karnavali, helouini da sxva). ise, "Tvali daudges evropas" da yeenoba-berikaobis patroni xalxi marTla "tyeSi pantis Zebnas" nu gadavayolebT yvelafers.
Tbilisoba Tavisi arsiT wminda sabWouri fenomenia (wels Turme saiubileo 30-e TariRsac avRniSnavdiT), sadac ubralo moqalaqe erTi didi dagegmarebis pasiuri detalia mxolod. aseTi damokidebuleba yvelafris totaluri kontrolis usiamovno mogonebebs aRZravs. amitom, ukeTesi iqneba Tu momavalSi organizatorebi marto mayureblis statusiT ki ara, dResaswaulSi TanamonawileobisaTvisac dagvpatiJeben.
wlevandeli Tbilis-qalaqobis pirveli STabeWdileba Tavisuflebis moedanze gaSlili grandiozuli Savi scena iyo. uceb goneba "centr-pointis" imave feris "Sedevrisaken" gameqca: neta xom ar moaxerxes da tendenciad xom ar daamkvidres arqiteqturaSi "Savi esTetika"? magram, rac ufro binddeboda, miT ufro ikveTeboda organizatorebis optikuri Canafiqri: mkrTalad ganaTebuli scenis ukan mTeli Tavisi grandiozulobiT wamoimarTa borotebis mZleveli sikeTis skulptura.
maxsovs, Tavis droze, Cveni "gigantomani" Tanamemamulis mier nawyalobevma am monumentma gvariani vnebaTaRelva gamoiwvia. qarTveli da ucxoeli mxatvrebis mier mowyobili saprotesto aqcia, marTalia Zeglis demontaJiT ar damTavrebula, magram figura TiTqos TavisiT gaqra Tbiliselebis Tvalsawieridan. masStabebis aSkara Seusabamobis gamo asec iyo mosalodneli. Tavisuflebis moedani misTvis patara iyo, Soridan ki, reliefisa da axalmSeneblobebis mizeziT, adgil-adgil ar Canda. Tanac, es erTaderTi wminda giorgi iyo, romlis danaxvaze marSutkaSi myofi morwmune sazogadoeba pirjvars arasodes iwerda. dameTanxmebiT, aseTi totaluri ignorirebis fonze, Tbilisoba da misi msgavsi dResaswaulebi monumentis reprezentaciisaTvis kargi saSualebaa.
koncertisaTvis gaxurebuli mzadeba midioda. scenaze lela wurwumia idga da Tavisi omaxiani xmiT teqnikosebs mikrofonebis gasworebaSi exmareboda (ise, qalbatoni lela aucileblad raRacas SeiZens, axali varcxnilobis gamo Zlivs vicani). mere sxva monawileebic enacvlebodnen erTmaneTs da yvelani koncertisaTvis momzadebuli nomrebidan waimRerebdnen xolme. yvelaferi naTeli iyo: qarTuli estrada, Tavisi qveynis dedaqalaqze Seqmnili paTetikuri simRerebis raodenobiT, namdvilad rekordze gadioda. erTi axali simReridan nawyvets ki mfrinav frazad gadaqceva ar ascdeba: "me viyo Tbilisi"...
scenis mimdebare teritoriaze da mTels rusTavelze sazogadoeba mravlad ireoda. xalisiT gamorCeuli axalgazrda gogo-biWebi sWarbobdnen. ucnaurad gvandnen erTmaneTs. varcxniloba yvelas romeliRac surenasTan an arturasTan qonda dayenebuli. rac Seexeba Cacmulobas, didubisa da lilos bazrobebis tendencia aSkarad etyobodaT. ho, kidev bodi-artis nimuSebic SevniSne zogierTs, oRond mxolod saxeze.
rusTaveli transportisaTvis daketili iyo. damerwmuneT, aseT dros dedaqalaqis mTavar quCaze gaseirneba sakmarisi siamovnebaa. Tu uecrad skeidbordebze mosriale "eqstremalebi" Segxvdebian, nu SegeSindebaT. Tbiliseli Tineijerebi am saqmeSi SesaSuri ostatobiT gamoirCevian, safrTxes aravis uqmnian.
parlamentis fasadidan ukve aSenebuli Tu asaSenebeli "ocnebis koSkebis" bilbordebi CamoexsnaT. swori gadawyvetilebaa. bolo dros rusTavelze gaCaRebuli holivuduri gadaRebebisaTvis veraferi saxarbielo dekoracia iqneboda. barem isic vTqvaT, rom Cvens ambavSi endi garsias, penelopa krusis, xavier bardemisa da bolo-bolo didi maestro almadovaris saxelebis gaJRereba, albaT Cvens quCazec male moiyvans gazafxuls.
axla veraze vdgevar. aq mayali ukve minavlebula, pirveli mwvadic dauWaSnikebiaT. "koka kolas" mravlisamtani boTlebidan kaxuri warafi moedineba. sulswrafi qarTvelebi. rogorc wesi, am dros, am adgilze darbaiseli verelebi sxedan da dinjad akeTeben saWadrako svlebs an SigadaSig kamaTels gaagoreben. magram, Tbilisobam yvelafris "iarmurkad" gadaqceva icis xolme.
mere qarTuli keTildReobis dRemde myarad mdgar citadelSi gadadixar. vakelebo, vakelebo. "ganviTarebuli socializmisa" da postsabWour-evropuli warmodgenebis sinTezi. kedlebze SedarebiT daxvewili graffitis kultura da ganumeorebeli asobgera "l". aq yvelaferi Sikia, TviT religiurobac ki. aqaurobam Tu cota Tavbru dagaxvia, Cveni drois mwerali unda gaixseno, am ubnis kargi eqsperti: sul ramdenime aTeuli wlis win am adgilebSi "wyneTelebi Turme Txebs aZovebdnen". warmogidgeniaT? gvariani Svebaa Cemnairi "soflelisTvis". damSvidebuli mivuyvebi vakis parkisaken gzas.
vakis parkSi tradiciuli ambebia: bebiebi da SviliSvilebi, Seyvarebuli wyvilebi. eTnografiulisaken asaforTxebel bilikebze vnebebi ufro mZafrdeba. Tumca, klub "33a"-dan gamomavali musikis xmebi Tavis irgvliv axdens sazogadoebis koncentracias. miTumetes, rom TbilisobasTan dakavSirebiT, koncertze daswreba ufasoa. Sedi-gamodi. Ria karis dRea raRa. bolo dros, klubis mesveurTa subkulturuli warmodgenebi cota eWvqveS daayena nametanma komercializaciam. amitom, aseTi socialuri Jesti Selaxuli popularobis reabilitaciisTvis miswreba iyo.
Ria cis qveS darbazi qaosurad ivseboda. scenaze qarTuli folkloris "evroSeremontebaSi" friad damaSvrali zumba da jguf "mgzavrebis" sruli Semadgenloba gaSliliyo. unda aRiniSnos, rom "mgzavrebis" Semoqmedebam jerjerobiT yvelaze srulyofili saxe misca Cveni musikaluri memkvdreobis gaTanamedrovebis saqmes. kargi iqneba, maTi simRerebis mosmenis Semdeg, "rimeiqebis" bevri ubadruki nimuSi mxolod warsulis koSmarad Tu gagvaxsendeba.
magram, erTi nakli aSkarad TvalSisacemi iyo. klubebisaTvis damaxasiaTebeli imiji--musikossa da mayurebels Soris uSualo kontaqti--"33a"-Si qarTuli kompleqsebis zRvarze gadioda. marTalia, zumba cdilobda am TvalsazrisiT situaciis daregulirebas, magram, ratomRac mayureblis sruli ignorirebis fonze. simRerebs Soris misi cotaTi "ukbilo" xumrobebi mxolod teqnikosi viqtorasaken iyo mimarTuli. Tumca, Sekrebili sazogadoebac didi aqtiurobiT ar gamoirCeoda. ar vici, kedlebze dakidebuli statiuri fotoebisa Tu darbazSi ratomRac mimofantuli NATO-s bukletebis brali iyo, momeCvena rom vakelebi cota "gatexilSi" iyvnen.
saerTo suraTi verc momdevno monawileebis gamosvlam Secvala. mgoni marto erTi sezonisaTvis Sekrebili jgufi "art-Semodgoma", scenaze ucnauri ganlagebiT damamaxsovrda: skamebze mokalaTebul sam jeels violinoiani patara gogo adga Tavze. da kidev, bolo drois lamis erovnul instrumentad qceuli tamtamebi. ase bevr adamians rom qonda amoCrili lajebSi am Tbilisobaze.
sxva Tu araferi, Cemi piradi ganwyobileba cotaTi mainc rom gamomekeTebina, CanTaSi gadanaxuli ludi "bavaria 8.6" gavaZre da axla am gziT vcdilobdi evropelobas da maSasadame NATO-elobas.
yvelaze gemrieli pirveli ylupi jer damTavrebuli ar mqonda, roca darbazSi taSma igriala. cota Sebindebuli iyo da ukve ganaTebul scenaze qarTuli publikis favoriti jgufi "frani" wardga. eqsperimentuli Semadgenlobis miuxedavad biWebma mainc magrad Seuberes. Tqven warmoidgineT, darbazis kuTxeSi sami acekvebuli gogonac ki SevniSne. saRamos suli da guli, "franis" vokali gaga CixlaZe iyo. namdvili Soumeni, xalisiani iumoriTa da "xvanWkaris" boTliT xelSi. darwmunebuli var, Cemi sakuTari rom ar mqonoda, survilis SemTxvevaSi sasmels aucileblad gamiziarebda. xandaxan sigaretsac Tamamad abolebda da repertuaris SerCevas darbazs sTxovda xolme.
"franis" erTi simRerisa ar iyos, neta genaxaT aqamde uimedod miZinebuli darbazi musikosebTan erTad "ra gulianad mReroda."
ukana gzaze isev vake-vera-rusTaveliT vbrundebodi. transportis moZraoba sanaxevrod aRedginaT. xalxic SeTxelebuli iyo. samagierod, koWebamde mzesumziris narCenebs mivaSrialebdi Semodgomis quCebSi. Tavisuflebaze am droisTvis albaT Tbilisis sapatio moqalaqeebs ajildoeben. danagvianebulma quCebma gamaxsena, neta vinmes azrad Tu mosvlia, sapatio Tbiliselis wodeba romelime qurTi meezovisaTvis erTxel mainc mieniWebinaT. dameTanxmebiT, amiT sakadrisad dafasdeboda am muyaiTi adamianebis Sroma. mere uceb firosmanis maradiuli "meezove" maxsendeba da isev sulmnaTi nikala Tu gamogviyvans am uxerxuli mdgomareobidan.
"axalmoqalaqeebidan" oTar ramiSvili da kidev, warmoSobiT Tbiliseli, baqos yofili meri damamaxsovrda. rogorc Cans, wels Cveni drois aSuRebs daufases Rvawli da Tan Tbilisur-azeruli mimarTulebac Seusabames (Tu baqo-jeihanuri?). mere ceremonialis wamyvanma oriode sityvis Tqma vaxtang kikabiZes sTxova, romelic wlevandel Tbilisobaze moqalaqe Tu ara, "sapatio Tamada" namdvilad iqneboda. amitom, dardimandulad marTla ori Tqva: "Tbiliss gaumarjoso".
gavkadnierdebi da sadRegrZelos paToss mec SevuerTdebi. Tanac Tu batoni buba nebas momcems, ludiT vityvi.
maS ase... ukeTes Tbiliss gaumarjos!
*neSo-- raWvelebi foTols eZaxian.
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